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Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in one week without supplemental oxygen


Kilian Jornet climbed in a single push the north face of Mount Everest (8.848m) for the second time in a week. For this he did not use oxygen nor fixed ropes. Jornet had already reached the summit on 22nd May but stomach cramps had prevented him from completing the route as planned. He said: “I’m so happy to have made the summit again! Today I felt good although it was really windy so it was hard to move fast. I think summiting Everest twice in one week without oxygen opens up a new realm of possibilities in alpinism and I’m really happy to have done it”

One week, two summits

Jornet reached the summit via the North Face of Everest on 27th May at 9pm (+5.45GMT). He left Advanced Base Camp at 6500m. He climbed to the summit on the ‘normal’ route passing the three high altitude camps used by climbers attempting the world’s highest mountain, a climb which takes on average four days.

The climb to the summit was slow but continuous. The wind was the main obstacle Jornet had to overcome, on an extremely windy Himalayan day. Weather conditions improved throughout the night in the latter part of the route and he returned to Advanced Base Camp 29 hours 30 minutes after leaving.

With this ascent Jornet repeats the feat of reaching the world’s highest point after having climbed to the summit six days previously. On the previous climb he reached the summit in 26 hours, leaving from Base Camp at Rongbuk monastery at 5100m. The climb had begun well but he was hampered by stomach problems from 7500m, which slowed him down considerably and forced him to make repeated stops. Returning to Base Camp Jornet explained that: I didn’t feel great and was moving very slowly. I had to stop every few metres with cramps and vomiting. But I felt ok with the altitude and decided to continue. When I got back down I thought I would like to try another attempt if I felt well enough.

The two ascents are part of the Summits of My Life project, in which Jornet has travelled to some of the most emblematic mountains across the globe setting records for fastest known ascents. He began in the Mont Blanc range in 2012 and has since climbed in Europe (Mont Blanc & Matterhorn), in North America (Denali) and in South America (Aconcagua).

Jornet has been accompanied on this Everest expedition by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset, mountain guide and cameraman.

Jornet is currently resting in Everest Base Camp before returning to Europe.

Accumulated route times

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6.500m)-Summit (8.848m): 17h

Summit (8.848m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6.500m): 28h30


Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen.


Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen. For this ascent, Kilian Jornet left on May 27th from Advanced Base Camp (6.500m) and it took him 17 hours to the summit in a very windy day. From there, he returned to the Advanced Base Camp where he is resting with Seb Montaz. More info soon.

Kilian Jornet repite cima en el Everest dos veces en una semana sin usar oxígeno artificial. Para este ascenso, Kilian Jornet salió el 27 de mayo del Campo Base Avanzado (6.500m) e hizo cumbre en 17 horas en un día con mucho viento. Desde allí, volvió al Campo Base Avanzado donde está descansando con Seb Montaz. Más información pronto.

Picture: Kilian Jornet, back in the Advanced Base Camp

Kilian Jornet’s Ascent of Everest

Alone, in a single climb and without oxygen or fixed ropes, Jornet has reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain (8,848 m)

The climb, which forms part of the Summits of My Life project, sets a new « Fastest Known Time » of 26 hours from the Everest Base Camo (5,100 m) to the summit at 8,848 m

Due to stomach problems Jornet didn’t complete the descent to the Everest Base Camp and is currently recovering at the Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m)

« Up to 7,700m I felt really good and was making progress as planned but then I started to feel unwell, probably from stomach virus. From then on I made slow progress and had to keep stopping to recover. I finally reached the summit at midnight », Jornet said.

Barcelona, 22/05/2017 – Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight local time on May 21-22 and did so in a single climb without oxygen or fixed ropes. With this ascent, Kilian Jornet has established a new « Fastest Known Time » (FKT), which is to say, a new speed record. He completed the climb in 26h from Everest Base Camp at the ancient Rombuk monastery (5,100m) to the summit at 8,848m.

He reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) via the traditional route up the north face. Kilian Jornet began the challenge at Everest Base Camp (5,100m) on May 20 at 22h local time (+5: 45 GMT).

At 12h15 local time he was back at the Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) where he confirmed reaching the summit at midnight, 26 hours after beginning the ascent. In general, expeditions take four days to reach the summit from the Advanced Base Camp.

38 hours after beginning the challenge and having returned to the Advanced Base Camp, he said:  « Up to 7,700m I felt really good and was making progress as planned but then I started to feel unwell, probably from a stomach virus. From then on I made slow progress and had to keep stopping to recover. I finally reached the summit at midnight.”  

Given his indisposition, Jornet decided to end the attempt at the Advanced Base Camp instead of descending to the Base Camp, located near the ancient monastery of Rombuk, as he’d initially intended.  

The climb forms part of the Summits of My Life project which since 2012 has seen Jornet travel around the world to try to establish records on the planet’s most iconic mountains.  He began with Mont Blanc in 2012 y and since then has scaled mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America  (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua).

During the Everest challenge Jornet was accompanied by the expedition’s mountain guide and video cameraman  Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.

Summit of Everest in 26h

The meteorologists forecast a window of good weather on May 20-21. Jornet decided to make May 20 the day to begin the challenge and left the Base Camp at 5,100m by the ancient monastery of Rombuk.

The aim was to get to the summit in a single climb, without oxygen or fixed ropes and with minimal equipment. Finally, after reviewing the conditions for the different routes, he opted for the traditional one.

Kilian Jornet set off at 10pm local time (+5: 45 GMT). Ahead of him lay 15.2km of glacial moraine  before he arrived at the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400m. This part of the climb took 4h35  and he arrived at ABC at 2:35am. He rested for two hours before continuing.

« It’s important to be fresh when you reach 8,000m if you want to reach the summit. I knew that in the first stage I had to conserve energy for the final stretch,” he explained. Jornet left some of the technical equipment at the ABC and set off for the most technical part of the climb at 4:30am.

Leaving the ABC, he climbed to cross Field 1 at  7,000m. It was 6:30am and he’d been on the move for 8 hours. From there he climbed to Field 2, between 7,600m and 7,800m where Seb Montaz was waiting for him and who would film him during the ascent and then return to Advanced Base Camp to report on the situation.

Meanwhile, Jornet continued to climb. At around 7,500m he started to feel weak and had a bad stomach ache. As a result, he decided to rest for 15 minutes in Field 3 (8,300m). “I didn’t feel well and I was making slow progress. I had to stop every few metres and I had cramps and was vomiting. In spite of everything, I felt all right at altitude and decided to continue.”

From there, Jornet climbed the highest section and arrived at the summit at midnight, 26 hours after setting off. It was a clear night, without clouds or wind.  « Reaching the summit of Everest without fixed ropes isn’t something you’d do every day! I saw a fantastic sunset and finally reached the summit at midnight. I was alone but I saw the lights of expeditions setting off on their ascent both on the north and south faces. I started to descend right away so as to get to the ABC as soon as possible,” he said.

However, he rested again in Field 3 before beginning the final part of the descent and arrived at the ABC at 12h15 local time, 38 hours after he began. As he felt unwell, he decided to end the attempt at the Advanced Base Camp rather than descend to Base Camp, near the ancient monastery of Rombuk, as he’d originally intended.

The video cameraman Seb Montaz had followed Kilian Jornet during some of the challenge. Montaz left Advanced Base Camp at 3h20am and climbed to 7,500m to wait for him and film his ascent through the high fields of Everest. Montaz would then climb to 8,020m to film.  From there he descended to the Advanced Base Camp to wait for Jornet, climbing up to 7,000m to meet him. It was another handful of hours on the mountain for this guide turned cameraman. Jornet and Montaz are currently at the Advanced Base Camp recovering from this titanic effort.  

Everest, the second attempt

in September 2016 Kilian Jornet made his first attempt on the world’s highest mountain. In spite of being in good physical shape and well acclimatised they couldn’t attempt a climb because of adverse weather conditions. This time around they changed seasons and travelled in spring. Weather conditions have been quite favourable, allowing them to acclimatise and prepare for the challenge.

Rapid acclimatisation to be more efficient

Before Everest, Kilian Jornet had spent two weeks on another 8,000m mountain, Cho Oyu (8,200m). The aim was to be well prepared for Everest and also to try out a new type of acclimatisation, as he explained: « In four weeks we have reached two 8,000m summits so it seems our acclimatisation has worked.  We had been training in hypoxia for a few weeks before and we went to acclimatise in the Alps before coming here. It seems that this type of express acclimatisation works and the body tires less and as a result we’re stronger when it comes to the challenge.”

Kilian Jornet arrived at Everest Base Camp (5,100m) on May 10. He chose the mountain’s north face, which is not the usual one. The day after he arrived Jornet climbed to the ABC (6,400m) to continue his acclimatisation and on the 11th climbed to 7,600m. When he returned once more to the ABC he said: « I felt good, I had a good feeling at altitude. I believe our acclimatisation is going well,”  

Sunday May 14 was a day of rest before beginning on the 15th the last big training day. Leaving the ABC, Kilian ascended and descended from 6,400m to 8,400m in a little over 9 hours. The aim was, on the one hand, to acclimatise, but also to see what state the ground was in. As he climbed he quickly realised that it would not be possible to make the ascent via the Norton or Holbeirn corridors as he’d originally intended. There was too much ice and it was too dangerous. On May 17 Kilian Jornet returned to Base Camp to rest, having completed the period of acclimatisation. All he had to do was wait for a window of good weather before attempting to reach the summit.

Accumulated time

Everest Base Camp (5,100m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,400m): 4h35

2h rest at Everest Advanced Base Camp

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) – Summit (8,848m): 26h (15’ rest in Field Campo 3 on the way up and 1 hour on the way down)

Summit (8,848m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m): 38h

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) – Everest Base Camp (5,100m)

Everest: Update expedition

Latest News – Seb Montaz is back at Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) as planned. He was with Kilian at around 7,500 metres as Kilian was continuing his ascent. Seb reports that Kilian was in good shape and weather conditions seemed good. He is now waiting for Kilian to return to Advanced Base Camp. We will post an update as soon as there is more news!


Kilian Jornet envisage pour l’été 2016 ce qui sera probablement l’un des défis les plus exigeants de Summits of My Life et de sa vie toute entière. Après avoir battu plusieurs records sur toutes les montagnes du monde, la fin de son projet personnel approche avec sa tentative d’établir le record de vitesse sur le toit du monde, à 8 848 mètres d’altitude. L’ascension de ce géant de l’Himalaya est programmée pour les mois d’août et de septembre prochains. Une fois de plus, Kilian Jornet s’apprête à relever le défi à sa façon, en choisissant de réaliser son ascension dans un esprit puriste et minimaliste.

« L’ascension de l’Everest sera sans doute l’une des plus exigeantes auxquelles je serai jamais confronté. Tout sera prétexte à l’apprentissage : comment mon corps réagira-t-il à l’altitude ? Pourrons-nous aborder la montagne comme nous avons l’habitude de le faire dans les Alpes ? Je me prépare pour cet objectif depuis de longs mois et j’ai hâte de commencer. Le projet Summits of My Life m’a toujours permis d’aller de l’avant et ce sera encore le cas cette fois-ci », expliquait Kilian.

grafisme everest_ok

Kilian Jornet souhaite gravir l’Everest en style alpin, avec la philosophie puriste et minimaliste qui le caractérise. En ce sens, et comme il l’a fait pour les autres défis de Summits of My Life, il tentera d’effectuer l’ascension d’une seule traite, sans s’arrêter dans des camps intermédiaires. C’est ce qui différencie son projet de l’alpinisme classique, avec le fait que l’acclimatation sera également envisagée sous un nouveau jour. En effet, Kilian et le reste de son équipe prévoient de passer les dernières semaines précédant leur départ en Himalaya dans les Alpes. Comme nous l’explique Jordi Tosas : « Il s’agit d’une nouvelle manière de s’acclimater. Avant de partir en Himalaya, nous aurons déjà effectué une partie de notre acclimatation en ayant passé de nombreuses journées en altitude. De sorte que lorsque nous arriverons au camp de base de l’Everest, nous n’aurons pas besoin d’y consacrer autant de journées avant de pouvoir démarrer l’ascension. »

Pour ce projet, ils ont choisi une voie peu fréquentée située sur la face nord. De la même manière que pour les autres défis de Summits of My Life, Kilian Jornet démarrera du dernier endroit habité : le monastère de Rongbuk, au Tibet. De là, il lui faudra atteindre le sommet puis revenir au point de départ. Depuis le monastère, Kilian devra parcourir 30 kilomètres avant d’arriver au camp de base avancé de la face nord, parfois appelé le camp des zombies, à 6 500 mètres d’altitude et, de là, enchaîner l’ascension jusqu’au sommet, à 8 848 mètres. En fonction des conditions, l’équipe envisagera l’ascension par le couloir Norton ou Horbein, deux options étaient possibles. Il s’agira de la première expérience au-dessus de 8 000 mètres pour Kilian : « Nous devrons être vigilants sur la façon dont notre corps réagira à l’altitude. Cette expédition sera, avant toute chose, un moyen d’apprendre, car nous savons déjà qu’il nous reste un long chemin à parcourir. La préparation constituera l’élément-clé, mais il nous faudra également de la patience pour découvrir ces hautes montagnes. »

Kilian Jornet relèvera le défi sans oxygène ni cordes fixes et avec matériel léger. Tout cela pour être sûr, comme il l’explique, de : « pouvoir [se] déplacer plus vite. En utilisant du matériel léger, nous pouvons avancer plus vite, même si nous savons que cela implique un risque plus grand. Nous sommes conscients de ce risque et nous l’assumons, car c’est de cette façon que nous aimons aller en montagne. » L’équipe ne souhaite pas envisager d’objectif de temps pour cette ascension.

L’équipe sera composée de Jordi Tosas, alpiniste et grand connaisseur de la région, et des deux cameramen et guides de montagne Sébastien Montaz-Rosset et Vivian Bruchez.

Une fois de plus, la façon dont Kilian vit et ressent la montagne constituera la clé de cette expédition, avec une équipe réduite pour un défi majuscule, le tout avec les valeurs de Summits of My Life : minimalisme, amitié et apprentissage. L’équipe quittera l’Europe le 7 août prochain et sera sur place pendant huit semaines, prête à saisir le moment propice pour l’ascension.


« Le jour du sommet, possiblement, il n’y aura personne d’autre sur l’Everest. C’est une période où il n’y a personne. En raison de la mousson, les cordes fixes seront recouvertes par la neige. L’Everest n’accorde qu’une seule chance », partageait Jordi Tosas.

Kilian sait que le sommet ne sera peut-être pas atteint : « Le fait que nous arrivions à faire le sommet dépend de nombreux facteurs : des facteurs externes, comme la météo ou les conditions, mais également des facteurs qui dépendent de nous, de notre préparation, etc. Dans tous les cas, si nous n’atteignons pas le sommet, ce ne sera pas un échec pour moi. Au contraire, ce sera un moyen d’apprendre. Je sais que, quoi qu’il arrive, nous rentrerons de l’Everest en ayant appris quelque chose. C’est la montagne qui commande et nous devons rester humbles face à elle. La montagne sera toujours là, à nous attendre, pour une prochaine occasion. »

Si le sommet de l’Everest est atteint, le projet Summits of My Life, qui a vu Kilian établir des records de vitesse au Mont Blanc, au Cervin, au McKinley et à l’Aconcagua, aura été mené à son terme.

Tous les détails de cette aventure peuvent être suivies par des canaux de médias sociaux

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