Kilian Jornet’s Ascent of Everest

Alone, in a single climb and without oxygen or fixed ropes, Jornet has reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain (8,484 m)

The climb, which forms part of the Summits of My Life project, sets a new “Fastest Known Time” of 26 hours from the Everest Base Camo (5,100 m) to the summit at 8,484 m

Due to stomach problems Jornet didn’t complete the descent to the Everest Base Camp and is currently recovering at the Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m)

“Up to 7,700m I felt really good and was making progress as planned but then I started to feel unwell, probably from stomach virus. From then on I made slow progress and had to keep stopping to recover. I finally reached the summit at midnight”, Jornet said.

 

Barcelona, 22/05/2017 – Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight local time on May 21-22 and did so in a single climb without oxygen or fixed ropes. With this ascent, Kilian Jornet has established a new “Fastest Known Time” (FKT), which is to say, a new speed record. He completed the climb in 26h from Everest Base Camp at the ancient Rombuk monastery (5,100m) to the summit at 8,484m.

He reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) via the traditional route up the north face. Kilian Jornet began the challenge at Everest Base Camp (5,100m) on May 20 at 22h local time (+5: 45 GMT).

At 12h15 local time he was back at the Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) where he confirmed reaching the summit at midnight, 26 hours after beginning the ascent. In general, expeditions take four days to reach the summit from the Advanced Base Camp.

38 hours after beginning the challenge and having returned to the Advanced Base Camp, he said:  “Up to 7,700m I felt really good and was making progress as planned but then I started to feel unwell, probably from a stomach virus. From then on I made slow progress and had to keep stopping to recover. I finally reached the summit at midnight.”  

Given his indisposition, Jornet decided to end the attempt at the Advanced Base Camp instead of descending to the Base Camp, located near the ancient monastery of Rombuk, as he’d initially intended.  

The climb forms part of the Summits of My Life project which since 2012 has seen Jornet travel around the world to try to establish records on the planet’s most iconic mountains.  He began with Mont Blanc in 2012 y and since then has scaled mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America  (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua).

 

During the Everest challenge Jornet was accompanied by the expedition’s mountain guide and video cameraman  Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.

Summit of Everest in 26h

The meteorologists forecast a window of good weather on May 20-21. Jornet decided to make May 20 the day to begin the challenge and left the Base Camp at 5,100m by the ancient monastery of Rombuk.

The aim was to get to the summit in a single climb, without oxygen or fixed ropes and with minimal equipment. Finally, after reviewing the conditions for the different routes, he opted for the traditional one.

Kilian Jornet set off at 10pm local time (+5: 45 GMT). Ahead of him lay 15.2km of glacial moraine  before he arrived at the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400m. This part of the climb took 4h35  and he arrived at ABC at 2:35am. He rested for two hours before continuing.

It’s important to be fresh when you reach 8,000m if you want to reach the summit. I knew that in the first stage I had to conserve energy for the final stretch,” he explained. Jornet left some of the technical equipment at the ABC and set off for the most technical part of the climb at 4:30am.

Leaving the ABC, he climbed to cross Field 1 at  7,000m. It was 6:30am and he’d been on the move for 8 hours. From there he climbed to Field 2, between 7,600m and 7,800m where Seb Montaz was waiting for him and who would film him during the ascent and then return to Advanced Base Camp to report on the situation.

Meanwhile, Jornet continued to climb. At around 7,500m he started to feel weak and had a bad stomach ache. As a result, he decided to rest for 15 minutes in Field 3 (8,300m). “I didn’t feel well and I was making slow progress. I had to stop every few metres and I had cramps and was vomiting. In spite of everything, I felt all right at altitude and decided to continue.”

 

From there, Jornet climbed the highest section and arrived at the summit at midnight, 26 hours after setting off. It was a clear night, without clouds or wind.  “Reaching the summit of Everest without fixed ropes isn’t something you’d do every day! I saw a fantastic sunset and finally reached the summit at midnight. I was alone but I saw the lights of expeditions setting off on their ascent both on the north and south faces. I started to descend right away so as to get to the ABC as soon as possible,” he said.

However, he rested again in Field 3 before beginning the final part of the descent and arrived at the ABC at 12h15 local time, 38 hours after he began. As he felt unwell, he decided to end the attempt at the Advanced Base Camp rather than descend to Base Camp, near the ancient monastery of Rombuk, as he’d originally intended.

The video cameraman Seb Montaz had followed Kilian Jornet during some of the challenge. Montaz left Advanced Base Camp at 3h20am and climbed to 7,500m to wait for him and film his ascent through the high fields of Everest. Montaz would then climb to 8,020m to film.  From there he descended to the Advanced Base Camp to wait for Jornet, climbing up to 7,000m to meet him. It was another handful of hours on the mountain for this guide turned cameraman. Jornet and Montaz are currently at the Advanced Base Camp recovering from this titanic effort.  

Everest, the second attempt

in September 2016 Kilian Jornet made his first attempt on the world’s highest mountain. In spite of being in good physical shape and well acclimatised they couldn’t attempt a climb because of adverse weather conditions. This time around they changed seasons and travelled in spring. Weather conditions have been quite favourable, allowing them to acclimatise and prepare for the challenge.

Rapid acclimatisation to be more efficient

Before Everest, Kilian Jornet had spent two weeks on another 8,000m mountain, Cho Oyu (8,200m). The aim was to be well prepared for Everest and also to try out a new type of acclimatisation, as he explained: “In four weeks we have reached two 8,000m summits so it seems our acclimatisation has worked.  We had been training in hypoxia for a few weeks before and we went to acclimatise in the Alps before coming here. It seems that this type of express acclimatisation works and the body tires less and as a result we’re stronger when it comes to the challenge.”

Kilian Jornet arrived at Everest Base Camp (5,100m) on May 10. He chose the mountain’s north face, which is not the usual one. The day after he arrived Jornet climbed to the ABC (6,400m) to continue his acclimatisation and on the 11th climbed to 7,600m. When he returned once more to the ABC he said: “I felt good, I had a good feeling at altitude. I believe our acclimatisation is going well,”  

Sunday May 14 was a day of rest before beginning on the 15th the last big training day. Leaving the ABC, Kilian ascended and descended from 6,400m to 8,400m in a little over 9 hours. The aim was, on the one hand, to acclimatise, but also to see what state the ground was in. As he climbed he quickly realised that it would not be possible to make the ascent via the Norton or Holbeirn corridors as he’d originally intended. There was too much ice and it was too dangerous. On May 17 Kilian Jornet returned to Base Camp to rest, having completed the period of acclimatisation. All he had to do was wait for a window of good weather before attempting to reach the summit.

 

Accumulated time

 

Everest Base Camp (5,100m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,400m): 4h35

2h rest at Everest Advanced Base Camp

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) – Summit (8,848m): 26h (15’ rest in Field Campo 3 on the way up and 1 hour on the way down)

Summit (8,848m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m): 38h

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) – Everest Base Camp (5,100m)

Kilian Jornet reaches the summit of Everest

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Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight of 21st to 22nd May (local time) in a single climb without the help of oxygen or fixed ropes.

He reached the summit via the north face of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) following the traditional route. Kilian Jornet began the challenge at Everest Base Camp Base near the ancient Rombuk monastery  (5,100m) on May 20 at  22h local time (+5:45 GMT).

At  12h15 local time of May 22nd he is back in the Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) where he confirmed summiting Everest at midnight, 26 hours after beginning the ascent.

38 hours after starting the temptative, he has arrived to the Advanced Base Camp of Everest, he explained: “Until I reached 7.700m I felt good and was going according to my planning, but there I started to feel stomach ache, I guess due to an stomach virus. From there I have moved slowly and stopping every few steps to recover. However, I made it to the summit at midnight”.

Due to this indisposition, Kilian Jornet choses to conclude the attempt, and stay in the Advanced Base Camp and not returning to Rongbuk as planned.

Once we have more information about the challenge, we will inform through the channels of Summits of My Life.

 

Everest: Expedition update

Latest News – Seb Montaz is back at Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) as planned. He was with Kilian at around 7,500 metres as Kilian was continuing his ascent. Seb reports that Kilian was in good shape and weather conditions seemed good. He is now waiting for Kilian to return to Advanced Base Camp. We will post an update as soon as there is more news!

Kilian Jornet begins the Everest challenge as part of the Summits of My Life project

Today, May 20th, Kilian Jornet has begun his personal project of climbing the north face of Everest. The Cerdanya athlete aims to set a new benchmark for the ascent and descent of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) without oxygen. The challenge is part of his Summits of My Life project which since 2012 has seen him to climb mountains around the world in a minimalist and pure style.

The attempt on Everest began today at 10PM local time at the Base Camp on the north face of the mountain at the ancient Rongbuk monastery (5,100m). From there Jornet will climb to the Advanced Base Camp at 6,500m and then try to reach the summit at 8,848m. In the end, Jornet has opted for the normal route for the ascent. The build-up of ice in the Norton corridor, his intended route, has forced him to opt for a safer one.

In his attempt, Jornet will not carry oxygen nor use fixed ropes and will carry the lightest material possible.  

Before he set off, Jornet said: “I feel very good physically and I seem to have done a good job of acclimatising myself. We hope the weather holds out and that we can complete the challenge which is the last of the  Summits of My Life project. It will be a long, hard day on the mountain but it will also no doubt be a wonderful experience!”

No one has attempted this particular challenge before and this will determine how long it takes Jornet to complete this difficult attempt.

The Summits of My Life channels will publish updates on the expedition.

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#OurEverest

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Kilian Jornet is ready for the great adventure of 2017. After taking part in the Mezzalama yesterday, where he finished second together with Marti Werner and Martin Anthamatten.

There was no time to relax as he boarded a plane en route to the Himalayas, where he expects to spend the next few weeks on two very different climbing projects.

 

First stop: Cho Oyu

During the first part of his trip Kilian Jornet will attempt to climb Cho Oyu (8,201m), the world’s sixth highest mountain. He will be accompanied by his companion Emelie Forsberg.

Jornet and Forsberg looked for a peak that would be reasonably accessible from base camp. After considering various options they chose this mountain which has a reputation as one of the least technically difficult in the Himalayan range.

According to Jornet: “It will be interesting to see how we feel as we will have to acclimatize very quickly. We’ve been preparing this expedition for weeks but we won’t know how our bodies will react until we get there. It will be an interesting experience and Emelie’s first 8,000m and I want to be there to accompany her. As for me, it will be good preparation for Everest because I’ll be better acclimatised when I get there.”

The pair will be on Cho Oyu for two weeks before Jornet prepares himself for the second part of the trip.

 

Everest, the remaining giant  

In mid-May Jornet will travel to Tíbet to reach the monastery at Rongbuk, at 5,000m, the starting point for the Everest expedition (8.848m). This time the team is even smaller and only the cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset will accompany him. Jornet’s objective is to conquer the world’s highest mountain and complete his personal project, Summits of My Life.

Over the past six years Jornet has travelled around the world setting climbing records on the world’s most iconic mountains. He began on Mont Blanc in 2012 and since then has climbed mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua). Now, to complete the project, for the second time he will attempt the ascent of Everest after having to postpone the 2016 attempt due to bad weather conditions.

The team planned to travel to the Himalayas in autumn but, unable to obtain permits, decided to bring it forward to spring, as Jornet explains: “This year will be different from 2016 as there will be more people in the base camp while last year we were alone. The reason for wanting to try it in August-September is the temperatures are a little warmer and there is less risk of freezing. In spite of everything, the knowledge we acquired last year will prove vital in this expedition.”

As they did last year, the Summits of My Life team will try to reach the summit of Everest via the north face. The north face is the least well known, as most commercial expeditions go via the south side. Jornet still doesn’t know what route he will take as it will depend on the weather conditions. The idea is to attempt it via either the Norton or the Hornbein corridors. i

During the first few days the team will establish the advanced base camp (ABC) at 6,300m. From there they will make several excursions to acclimatise and reconnoitre the terrain before heading down to the starting point. This is the basic principle of  Summits of My Life: ascending from the last inhabited place and returning to it once the summit has been reached. On this occasion the point of departure will be the Rongbuk monastery at 5,000m.

Jornet knows that on Everest the most important things to bear in mind are the altitude and the weather conditions: “There are many factors in play that will depend on how I feel at altitude and the prevailing conditions during the expedition. That’s where we will take the decisions, but knowing that we want to do it as we have always done – light and quick. There are people who think it’s madness but for me the mountain is a space where everyone should be free to do what they think they can do. I like to travel light so I can be quick. In this way, we spend less time at altitude and suffer less fatigue, although we are aware that it makes the expedition more risky. However, weighing everything up, this is the way we’ve chosen and that we will attempt again on Everest.

Kilian Jornet expects to spend a month on Everest in order to make the attempt before returning to Europe.

 

Our Everest, a global campaign

The expedition can be followed using the hashtag #OurEverest. The idea is to bring together the community of followers who have backed the project since the beginning and who have made the expedition to Everest possible.

Jornet says: “We began this challenge together five years ago and with our values and our approach to the mountain we’ve got to this point. Although we don’t know what will happen, I’m clear about one thing: it’s not my Everest, but ours, everyone who has in one way or another contributed to making this project a reality.”

You can find out more about the project at http://everest.summitsofmylife.com/  and on the project’s social networks on Facebook and Twitter.

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Kilian Jornet postpones his dream of conquering Everest

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Kilian Jornet returns from Everest without having climbed the world’s highest mountain. Bad weather conditions during the final stage of the expedition have forced him to abandon the attempt to climb Everest via the north face.

As Jornet explained: “During the first few weeks we were acclimatising well and the conditions were good. However, when we were getting ready to prepare the attempt the weather began to change. There were some heavy snow storms and a large accumulation of snow. As a result, although we were in good physical shape, there was a high risk of avalanches and in the absence of good safety conditions it was impossible to climb.”  

In spite of not being able to complete the challenge, Jornet was happy with the experience.  “There’s a sense of frustration because we’re well acclimatised and we feel good but it would have exposed us to too much risk. Nevertheless, we’re happy because it’s been a very positive experience in which we’ve learnt a lot. Being alone on Everest is incredible as there was no one else there. Now we’ll go home to recover and plan the future. I think that if we come back there are some things we would change but it’s been a great experience and a good lesson for next time.”

So, having spent three weeks at base camp on the north face of Everest (6,000m) acclimatising and preparing for the challenge of climbing the world’s highest mountain, Jornet and the Summits of My Life team postponed the the Everest challenge until a later date.

With this challenge, Kilian Jornet intended to complete the Summits of My Life project in which since 2012 he has broken records for the ascent and descent of mountains around the world.  

[More details of the expedition will be available shortly]

2016: KILIAN JORNET’S GREATEST CHALLENGE

This year Kilian Jornet will attempt what will probably be the most demanding challenges of the Summits of My Life project and, indeed, of his life. After breaking records on mountains around the world, the final part of his personal project will be an attempt to establish the record for ascending Everest, the world’s highest mountain (8,848m). The ascent of the giant Himalayan peak will take place in August and September. Once again, Kilian Jornet is taking on this challenge his own way, in the most pure and minimalist manner possible.

“Everest will probably be one of the most demanding climbs I’ve ever faced. It will be a great learning experience, from how my body reacts to the high altitude to how to apply the Alpine approach to the mountain. I’ve been preparing for this challenge for months and I’m keen to get started. The Summits of My Life project has always taken me to my limits and this time it won’t be any different,” Kilian Jornet says.

Kilian Jornet is taking on Everest with the purist and minimalist philosophy that is the trademark of the Alpine style. This means that, as with other challenges in the Summits of My Life project, he intends to complete the ascent in one go, without stopping at high-altitude camps. This is different from the classical Alpine approach but he has also acclimatising himself in a different way. Killian Jornet and his team intend to spend the last few weeks before they go to the Himalayas at a high altitude in the Alps. As Jordi Tosas explains: “It’s a new approach to acclimatisation. Before we set off for the Himalayas we will have partly acclimatised having spent some days at altitude. This means we won’t have to wait so long to start when we arrive at the Everest base camp.” Kilian Jornet adds: “This means we’ll be stronger when we begin the ascent. It can make you weaker if you spend several days acclimatising yourself on the mountain. With this type of acclimatisation we can begin the challenge with more energy and a better chance of success.”  

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Jornet has chosen a little-used route on the north face. As in previous Summits of My Life challenges, he will set off from the last inhabited place and from there aim to reach the summit and return to the point of departure. He will set off from the Rongbuk monastery in Tibet. Kilian Jornet will then have to cover some 30km before arriving at the advanced north face base camp – Zombie Camp (6,500m) and from there ascend to the 8,848m summit. Depending conditions, the team will decide the ascend route which Norton or Horbein are two of the possible options. It will be the first time that Kilian Jornet has climbed above 8,000m, which is why he said: “We’ll have to see how our body reacts at altitude. This expedition will be, above all, a learning exercise because we know there’s a long road ahead. Preparation is key, but we will also need to be patient to learn about these great mountains.”

Kilian Jornet is taking on the challenge without oxygen or fixed ropes and carrying the lightest equipment possible. As he explains:  “This is so I can move more quickly. With light equipment we can advance quicker, although we know this increases the risk. We’re aware of this risk and we’re taking it because ultimately this is the way we like to approach the mountain.” The team doesn’t wish to predict how long the ascent of Everest will take as they are aware that there’s no evidence that any expedition has attempted this challenge in this way.

The Everest expedition is made up of Jordi Tosas, an Alpine climber who knows the area well, as well as the cameramen and guides Sébastien Montaz-Rosset and Vivian Bruchez.

Once again, the way in which Kilian experiences the mountain will be a key factor, as it’s a small team and a huge challenge, all under the umbrella and based on the values of  Summits of My Life: minimalism, friendship and learning. The expedition will leave Europe on August 7 and will be in the area for around eight weeks, waiting for the best moment to begin the ascent.

“The day when we attack the summit we think there won’t be anyone else on Everest. It’s a period when there’s no one there. Thanks to the monsoon the fixed ropes will be covered with snow and Everest will only allow you one chance,” said Tosas.

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However, Kilian Jornet is aware that he may not be able to complete the challenge, and commented: “Reaching the summit depends on a lot of factors. There are external factors, such as the weather and the conditions on the mountain, but it also depends on us, if we are sufficiently prepared. Whatever happens, if we don’t make it, for me it’s not a failure. On the contrary, it’s a lesson. I know that whatever happens we’ll return from Everest having learnt something. In the end, it’s the mountain that’s in charge and we have to be humble. It will always be there, waiting for us, for another chance.”  

If he reaches the summit of Everest, it would mark the completion of Summits of My Life, in which Jornet has set record times on Mont Blanc, Cervino, Denali and the Aconcagua.

All the details of this adventure can be followed through Social Media channels Summits of My Life.

Facebook: facebook.com/Summitsofmylife

Twitter: @summitsofmlylife

We’re counting on you to help Nepal

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April 25 marks the first anniversary and Summits of My Life has set up a very special activity to pay homage to the people of Nepal on social network. The aim is to remind everyone that Nepal still needs our help to rebuild itself.

We want you to become the voice of our project!

If you don’t have a T-shirt, you can share this image on your social networks!

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Will you help? Share the project on your social networks. If we all take part we can reach many people.  

Nepal

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Nepal will climb now one of the most difficult mountains, and we, this time, must be their porters” Jordi Tosas.

We are back home, Jordi Tosas, Seb Montaz and me have been almost 20 days in Nepal, changing the plans from climbing to helping the people who has been giving so much to all alpinists. We arrived at Kathmandu 2 days after the earthquake, expecting a big destruction on the city as we saw on the medias. Kathmandu was (is) not collapsed, just a few located buildings. After a week the life on streets was “normal”.
Jordi has been many (28) times on Nepal and has many friends on Langtang area, so we where going straight there. The destruction there is huge, the valley did not exist as it was anymore. Big landslides and avalanches collapsed the valley and all the people there. The dimensions of the avalanche on the upper valley are not human, not even on a science fiction film. We was reporting identities and finding persons. After that we meet people from ACTED association and we join them to run on remote villages in Ganesh and Tamang areas asking their needs and making the trails destroyed, and giving after food and shelters. Last days we saw the help has been well expanded, many associations are working really hardly to give food and shelters to all the country, after a few weeks where the corruption and slow decisions of Nepali gouvernement was slowing down the help. In Kathmandu we had a last earthquake that make more fear to the population.

Now Nepal need help, mostly on remote areas to get shelter before the monsoon that is coming soon. Many ONG are on place giving the help on the moment, and it is important to help them, they are many good options. But it will be really important to continue traveling there, to impulse the local economy and reconstruct the trails and villages and give the continuity and money they will need to survive from tourism.

One of the most affected areas as we saw it was Langtang Valley, ( here you can see a picture of the destruction here) and here is a good initiative of Aymeric Clouet, Alpiniste who was on the area when the earth quake to reconstruct directly the valley.

Nepal is a poor country, many people is living with nothing and after the earthquake on many mountain areas they lose everything. But the smile was always on the their faces, Nepali people have a incredible capacity to fight problems, to be positive and strong on the pain, to find the happiness on the small cracks. We was going there to help them and they help us with their friendly reception, with their smile and shearing all they have.

Namasté

Kilian Jornet

Kilian Jornet’s statement on Himalayas expedition

After the weekend’s devastating earthquake in Nepal, we have decided to modify our plans regarding the expedition that we had planned to Everest.

Today, we will travel to Kathmandu, and we expect to be there tomorrow.

However, we will not follow the scheduled planning. We wish to cooperate, as far as possible, in providing our help to those in need in the mountains and in remote areas.

Nepal is a country that we carry in our hearts and this is why we have decided to carry on with the trip.

We give condolences to all the people affected by the earthquake and send support to those in the mountains faced with enormous adversity at this time.

Kilian Jornet and the Summits of My Life team.

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