Suunto Movie: Kilian’s Everest Climb from Base Camp to the Summit

“It was an incredible feeling to be for the first time on the summit of Everest in the middle of the night with nobody around,” says Kilian Jornet. Watch a Suunto Movie with Kilian’s voice over of his climb from Everest Base Camp to the summit!

Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in one week without supplemental oxygen

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Kilian Jornet climbed in a single push the north face of Mount Everest (8.848m) for the second time in a week. For this he did not use oxygen nor fixed ropes. Jornet had already reached the summit on 22nd May but stomach cramps had prevented him from completing the route as planned. He said: “I’m so happy to have made the summit again! Today I felt good although it was really windy so it was hard to move fast. I think summiting Everest twice in one week without oxygen opens up a new realm of possibilities in alpinism and I’m really happy to have done it”

One week, two summits

Jornet reached the summit via the North Face of Everest on 27th May at 9pm (+5.45GMT). He left Advanced Base Camp at 6500m. He climbed to the summit on the ‘normal’ route passing the three high altitude camps used by climbers attempting the world’s highest mountain, a climb which takes on average four days.

The climb to the summit was slow but continuous. The wind was the main obstacle Jornet had to overcome, on an extremely windy Himalayan day. Weather conditions improved throughout the night in the latter part of the route and he returned to Advanced Base Camp 29 hours 30 minutes after leaving.

With this ascent Jornet repeats the feat of reaching the world’s highest point after having climbed to the summit six days previously. On the previous climb he reached the summit in 26 hours, leaving from Base Camp at Rongbuk monastery at 5100m. The climb had begun well but he was hampered by stomach problems from 7500m, which slowed him down considerably and forced him to make repeated stops. Returning to Base Camp Jornet explained that: I didn’t feel great and was moving very slowly. I had to stop every few metres with cramps and vomiting. But I felt ok with the altitude and decided to continue. When I got back down I thought I would like to try another attempt if I felt well enough.

The two ascents are part of the Summits of My Life project, in which Jornet has travelled to some of the most emblematic mountains across the globe setting records for fastest known ascents. He began in the Mont Blanc range in 2012 and has since climbed in Europe (Mont Blanc & Matterhorn), in North America (Denali) and in South America (Aconcagua).

Jornet has been accompanied on this Everest expedition by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset, mountain guide and cameraman.

Jornet is currently resting in Everest Base Camp before returning to Europe.

Accumulated route times

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6.500m)-Summit (8.848m): 17h

Summit (8.848m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6.500m): 28h30

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Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen.

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Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen. For this ascent, Kilian Jornet left on May 27th from Advanced Base Camp (6.500m) and it took him 17 hours to the summit in a very windy day. From there, he returned to the Advanced Base Camp where he is resting with Seb Montaz. More info soon.

Kilian Jornet repite cima en el Everest dos veces en una semana sin usar oxígeno artificial. Para este ascenso, Kilian Jornet salió el 27 de mayo del Campo Base Avanzado (6.500m) e hizo cumbre en 17 horas en un día con mucho viento. Desde allí, volvió al Campo Base Avanzado donde está descansando con Seb Montaz. Más información pronto.

Picture: Kilian Jornet, back in the Advanced Base Camp

Kilian Jornet’s Ascent of Everest

Alone, in a single climb and without oxygen or fixed ropes, Jornet has reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain (8,848 m)

The climb, which forms part of the Summits of My Life project, sets a new “Fastest Known Time” of 26 hours from the Everest Base Camp (5,100 m) to the summit at 8,848 m

Due to stomach problems Jornet didn’t complete the descent to the Everest Base Camp and is currently recovering at the Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m)

“Up to 7,700m I felt really good and was making progress as planned but then I started to feel unwell, probably from stomach virus. From then on I made slow progress and had to keep stopping to recover. I finally reached the summit at midnight”, Jornet said.

 

Barcelona, 22/05/2017 – Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight local time on May 21-22 and did so in a single climb without oxygen or fixed ropes. With this ascent, Kilian Jornet has established a new “Fastest Known Time” (FKT), which is to say, a new speed record. He completed the climb in 26h from Everest Base Camp at the ancient Rombuk monastery (5,100m) to the summit at 8,848m.

He reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) via the traditional route up the north face. Kilian Jornet began the challenge at Everest Base Camp (5,100m) on May 20 at 22h local time (+5: 45 GMT).

At 12h15 local time he was back at the Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) where he confirmed reaching the summit at midnight, 26 hours after beginning the ascent. In general, expeditions take four days to reach the summit from the Advanced Base Camp.

38 hours after beginning the challenge and having returned to the Advanced Base Camp, he said:  “Up to 7,700m I felt really good and was making progress as planned but then I started to feel unwell, probably from a stomach virus. From then on I made slow progress and had to keep stopping to recover. I finally reached the summit at midnight.”  

Given his indisposition, Jornet decided to end the attempt at the Advanced Base Camp instead of descending to the Base Camp, located near the ancient monastery of Rombuk, as he’d initially intended.  

The climb forms part of the Summits of My Life project which since 2012 has seen Jornet travel around the world to try to establish records on the planet’s most iconic mountains.  He began with Mont Blanc in 2012 y and since then has scaled mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America  (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua).

 

During the Everest challenge Jornet was accompanied by the expedition’s mountain guide and video cameraman  Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.

Summit of Everest in 26h

The meteorologists forecast a window of good weather on May 20-21. Jornet decided to make May 20 the day to begin the challenge and left the Base Camp at 5,100m by the ancient monastery of Rombuk.

The aim was to get to the summit in a single climb, without oxygen or fixed ropes and with minimal equipment. Finally, after reviewing the conditions for the different routes, he opted for the traditional one.

Kilian Jornet set off at 10pm local time (+5: 45 GMT). Ahead of him lay 15.2km of glacial moraine  before he arrived at the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400m. This part of the climb took 4h35  and he arrived at ABC at 2:35am. He rested for two hours before continuing.

It’s important to be fresh when you reach 8,000m if you want to reach the summit. I knew that in the first stage I had to conserve energy for the final stretch,” he explained. Jornet left some of the technical equipment at the ABC and set off for the most technical part of the climb at 4:30am.

Leaving the ABC, he climbed to cross Field 1 at  7,000m. It was 6:30am and he’d been on the move for 8 hours. From there he climbed to Field 2, between 7,600m and 7,800m where Seb Montaz was waiting for him and who would film him during the ascent and then return to Advanced Base Camp to report on the situation.

Meanwhile, Jornet continued to climb. At around 7,500m he started to feel weak and had a bad stomach ache. As a result, he decided to rest for 15 minutes in Field 3 (8,300m). “I didn’t feel well and I was making slow progress. I had to stop every few metres and I had cramps and was vomiting. In spite of everything, I felt all right at altitude and decided to continue.”

 

From there, Jornet climbed the highest section and arrived at the summit at midnight, 26 hours after setting off. It was a clear night, without clouds or wind.  “Reaching the summit of Everest without fixed ropes isn’t something you’d do every day! I saw a fantastic sunset and finally reached the summit at midnight. I was alone but I saw the lights of expeditions setting off on their ascent both on the north and south faces. I started to descend right away so as to get to the ABC as soon as possible,” he said.

However, he rested again in Field 3 before beginning the final part of the descent and arrived at the ABC at 12h15 local time, 38 hours after he began. As he felt unwell, he decided to end the attempt at the Advanced Base Camp rather than descend to Base Camp, near the ancient monastery of Rombuk, as he’d originally intended.

The video cameraman Seb Montaz had followed Kilian Jornet during some of the challenge. Montaz left Advanced Base Camp at 3h20am and climbed to 7,500m to wait for him and film his ascent through the high fields of Everest. Montaz would then climb to 8,020m to film.  From there he descended to the Advanced Base Camp to wait for Jornet, climbing up to 7,000m to meet him. It was another handful of hours on the mountain for this guide turned cameraman. Jornet and Montaz are currently at the Advanced Base Camp recovering from this titanic effort.  

Everest, the second attempt

in September 2016 Kilian Jornet made his first attempt on the world’s highest mountain. In spite of being in good physical shape and well acclimatised they couldn’t attempt a climb because of adverse weather conditions. This time around they changed seasons and travelled in spring. Weather conditions have been quite favourable, allowing them to acclimatise and prepare for the challenge.

Rapid acclimatisation to be more efficient

Before Everest, Kilian Jornet had spent two weeks on another 8,000m mountain, Cho Oyu (8,200m). The aim was to be well prepared for Everest and also to try out a new type of acclimatisation, as he explained: “In four weeks we have reached two 8,000m summits so it seems our acclimatisation has worked.  We had been training in hypoxia for a few weeks before and we went to acclimatise in the Alps before coming here. It seems that this type of express acclimatisation works and the body tires less and as a result we’re stronger when it comes to the challenge.”

Kilian Jornet arrived at Everest Base Camp (5,100m) on May 10. He chose the mountain’s north face, which is not the usual one. The day after he arrived Jornet climbed to the ABC (6,400m) to continue his acclimatisation and on the 11th climbed to 7,600m. When he returned once more to the ABC he said: “I felt good, I had a good feeling at altitude. I believe our acclimatisation is going well,”  

Sunday May 14 was a day of rest before beginning on the 15th the last big training day. Leaving the ABC, Kilian ascended and descended from 6,400m to 8,400m in a little over 9 hours. The aim was, on the one hand, to acclimatise, but also to see what state the ground was in. As he climbed he quickly realised that it would not be possible to make the ascent via the Norton or Holbeirn corridors as he’d originally intended. There was too much ice and it was too dangerous. On May 17 Kilian Jornet returned to Base Camp to rest, having completed the period of acclimatisation. All he had to do was wait for a window of good weather before attempting to reach the summit.

 

Accumulated time

 

Everest Base Camp (5,100m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,400m): 4h35

2h rest at Everest Advanced Base Camp

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) – Summit (8,848m): 26h (15’ rest in Field Campo 3 on the way up and 1 hour on the way down)

Summit (8,848m) – Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m): 38h

Everest Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) – Everest Base Camp (5,100m)

Kilian Jornet reaches the summit of Everest

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Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight of 21st to 22nd May (local time) in a single climb without the help of oxygen or fixed ropes.

He reached the summit via the north face of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) following the traditional route. Kilian Jornet began the challenge at Everest Base Camp Base near the ancient Rombuk monastery  (5,100m) on May 20 at  22h local time (+5:45 GMT).

At  12h15 local time of May 22nd he is back in the Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) where he confirmed summiting Everest at midnight, 26 hours after beginning the ascent.

38 hours after starting the temptative, he has arrived to the Advanced Base Camp of Everest, he explained: “Until I reached 7.700m I felt good and was going according to my planning, but there I started to feel stomach ache, I guess due to an stomach virus. From there I have moved slowly and stopping every few steps to recover. However, I made it to the summit at midnight”.

Due to this indisposition, Kilian Jornet choses to conclude the attempt, and stay in the Advanced Base Camp and not returning to Rongbuk as planned.

Once we have more information about the challenge, we will inform through the channels of Summits of My Life.

 

Everest: Expedition update

Latest News – Seb Montaz is back at Advanced Base Camp (6,500m) as planned. He was with Kilian at around 7,500 metres as Kilian was continuing his ascent. Seb reports that Kilian was in good shape and weather conditions seemed good. He is now waiting for Kilian to return to Advanced Base Camp. We will post an update as soon as there is more news!

Kilian Jornet begins the Everest challenge as part of the Summits of My Life project

Today, May 20th, Kilian Jornet has begun his personal project of climbing the north face of Everest. The Cerdanya athlete aims to set a new benchmark for the ascent and descent of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) without oxygen. The challenge is part of his Summits of My Life project which since 2012 has seen him to climb mountains around the world in a minimalist and pure style.

The attempt on Everest began today at 10PM local time at the Base Camp on the north face of the mountain at the ancient Rongbuk monastery (5,100m). From there Jornet will climb to the Advanced Base Camp at 6,500m and then try to reach the summit at 8,848m. In the end, Jornet has opted for the normal route for the ascent. The build-up of ice in the Norton corridor, his intended route, has forced him to opt for a safer one.

In his attempt, Jornet will not carry oxygen nor use fixed ropes and will carry the lightest material possible.  

Before he set off, Jornet said: “I feel very good physically and I seem to have done a good job of acclimatising myself. We hope the weather holds out and that we can complete the challenge which is the last of the  Summits of My Life project. It will be a long, hard day on the mountain but it will also no doubt be a wonderful experience!”

No one has attempted this particular challenge before and this will determine how long it takes Jornet to complete this difficult attempt.

The Summits of My Life channels will publish updates on the expedition.

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#OurEverest

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Kilian Jornet is ready for the great adventure of 2017. After taking part in the Mezzalama yesterday, where he finished second together with Marti Werner and Martin Anthamatten.

There was no time to relax as he boarded a plane en route to the Himalayas, where he expects to spend the next few weeks on two very different climbing projects.

 

First stop: Cho Oyu

During the first part of his trip Kilian Jornet will attempt to climb Cho Oyu (8,201m), the world’s sixth highest mountain. He will be accompanied by his companion Emelie Forsberg.

Jornet and Forsberg looked for a peak that would be reasonably accessible from base camp. After considering various options they chose this mountain which has a reputation as one of the least technically difficult in the Himalayan range.

According to Jornet: “It will be interesting to see how we feel as we will have to acclimatize very quickly. We’ve been preparing this expedition for weeks but we won’t know how our bodies will react until we get there. It will be an interesting experience and Emelie’s first 8,000m and I want to be there to accompany her. As for me, it will be good preparation for Everest because I’ll be better acclimatised when I get there.”

The pair will be on Cho Oyu for two weeks before Jornet prepares himself for the second part of the trip.

 

Everest, the remaining giant  

In mid-May Jornet will travel to Tíbet to reach the monastery at Rongbuk, at 5,000m, the starting point for the Everest expedition (8.848m). This time the team is even smaller and only the cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset will accompany him. Jornet’s objective is to conquer the world’s highest mountain and complete his personal project, Summits of My Life.

Over the past six years Jornet has travelled around the world setting climbing records on the world’s most iconic mountains. He began on Mont Blanc in 2012 and since then has climbed mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua). Now, to complete the project, for the second time he will attempt the ascent of Everest after having to postpone the 2016 attempt due to bad weather conditions.

The team planned to travel to the Himalayas in autumn but, unable to obtain permits, decided to bring it forward to spring, as Jornet explains: “This year will be different from 2016 as there will be more people in the base camp while last year we were alone. The reason for wanting to try it in August-September is the temperatures are a little warmer and there is less risk of freezing. In spite of everything, the knowledge we acquired last year will prove vital in this expedition.”

As they did last year, the Summits of My Life team will try to reach the summit of Everest via the north face. The north face is the least well known, as most commercial expeditions go via the south side. Jornet still doesn’t know what route he will take as it will depend on the weather conditions. The idea is to attempt it via either the Norton or the Hornbein corridors. i

During the first few days the team will establish the advanced base camp (ABC) at 6,300m. From there they will make several excursions to acclimatise and reconnoitre the terrain before heading down to the starting point. This is the basic principle of  Summits of My Life: ascending from the last inhabited place and returning to it once the summit has been reached. On this occasion the point of departure will be the Rongbuk monastery at 5,000m.

Jornet knows that on Everest the most important things to bear in mind are the altitude and the weather conditions: “There are many factors in play that will depend on how I feel at altitude and the prevailing conditions during the expedition. That’s where we will take the decisions, but knowing that we want to do it as we have always done – light and quick. There are people who think it’s madness but for me the mountain is a space where everyone should be free to do what they think they can do. I like to travel light so I can be quick. In this way, we spend less time at altitude and suffer less fatigue, although we are aware that it makes the expedition more risky. However, weighing everything up, this is the way we’ve chosen and that we will attempt again on Everest.

Kilian Jornet expects to spend a month on Everest in order to make the attempt before returning to Europe.

 

Our Everest, a global campaign

The expedition can be followed using the hashtag #OurEverest. The idea is to bring together the community of followers who have backed the project since the beginning and who have made the expedition to Everest possible.

Jornet says: “We began this challenge together five years ago and with our values and our approach to the mountain we’ve got to this point. Although we don’t know what will happen, I’m clear about one thing: it’s not my Everest, but ours, everyone who has in one way or another contributed to making this project a reality.”

You can find out more about the project at http://everest.summitsofmylife.com/  and on the project’s social networks on Facebook and Twitter.

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Chronicle of #SoMLEverest by Kilian Jornet

We arrived in Kathmandu on August 7. We had what was effectively a one-way ticket, although the aim was to reach the summit in between four and six weeks. Everything depended on our acclimatisation and the conditions on the mountain, but we felt good. We were excited and keen to begin the challenge. After several weeks of preparation in the high Alps, we flew to Kathmandu. The initial idea was to go directly to Rombuk and the Base Camp, but due to various bureaucratic problems we didn’t arrive in Tibet until August 16.

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Before going to Tibet we took advantage of this time and went to Langtang so as not to lose our acclimatisation and to see how the reconstruction work in the valley was progressing after last year’s earthquake.

We climbed the valley from Syabru Besi to Kianjin Gompa. We noticed that the area was coming back to life. The lodges were opening again and the most affected villages, such as Langtang, were beginning to rebuild themselves after the winter and the monsoon, hoping that the tourist industry, still very small in this valley, would resume and get back to the levels before the earthquake. The project that we launched together with the NGO SOS Himalaya has led to some homes being built in Langtang, but there’s still a lot to do. We also took advantage of this week in Langtang to climb to an altitude of 5,500 m.

After a long journey to Tibet, on August 19 we finally arrived at Rombuk, where the road ends, just in front of the north face of Everest. It was a long journey but it was worth the effort: from this side the mountain appears to be a perfect white pyramid crisscrossed with strips of rock.

We spent two days in Rombuk  and climbed some summits up to 6,500m. On the 22nd we climbed up to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) with 12 yaks, Sitaram, the agency’s Nepalese cook, and Namste, the Tibetan kitchen boy. The state of the moraines made it impossible for the yaks to arrive at ABC, known as Zombie Camp, which is at 6,500m. In the end, we left them in the moraine, at around 6,000m and 5km from the ABC, where we put up the tents at what was to be our encampment for the expedition.

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The following week it was time to acclimatize at altitude. We felt good and as the weather was sunny and warm and not windy we were able to climb rapidly to 7,200m towards the north pass, towards Rapiu La,, climbing to 7,700m on the north ridge. As we moved alone and each at their own speed, we looked for the safest routes in terms of cracks and seracs. On the 29th I climbed to 7,700m looking for a line on the left of the seracs on the north collar: specifically on the north-northeast face. If the conditions on the north northeast face were perfect, with snow and ice covering the boots, there was clearly a quantity of fresh snow that had fallen on the ridge during the monsoon. That day I got up to 7,700m. It’s an incredible feeling to be alone on such a huge mountain. There was a lot of snow which made it difficult to move forward but, in terms of safety, conditions were good. There was no risk of avalanches and the weather was stable.

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Two days later, on August 31, we decided to have one last day of acclimatization, and try to reach 8,000-8,200m. This time we went up with Seb and Jordi at three in the morning following the moraine from our camp and at six in the morning attacked the north-northeast face. We decided to climb by a new route to the right of the face, on the spur of the channel to the right of the Russian path and emerging at 7,900 m to the right of the pinnacles. We made good progress in perfect snow and ice conditions, with an average incline of 55° and some sections on ice. At midday, at 7,600m, the weather changed unexpectedly. There was a heavy snowstorm and with it a high risk of avalanches.

After this attempt, we spent a few days relaxing in Rombuk, waiting for better weather to return. We wanted to get to the summit as everything seemed to be going well.

During those days the monsoon intensified, there was a lot of wind and constant snowfalls. On September 8 it seemed the good weather had arrived and we tried to reach the summit with Jordi and Seb. We knew that the conditions were difficult but we wanted to try it. We left our camp at midnight. At three in the morning we reached the north-northeast wall, quickly passed the rimaya at 7,000m, and we realized that the wind had created large plates and we decided to descend.

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We analyzed the situation and it was clear that over the past few days a lot of snow had accumulated on the mountain and the wind had formed large plates, not only on the north-northeast face but also on the ridge. Bearing this in mind, it was clear that things had to change radically if we were to attack the summit in safety. We had to postpone the challenge of climbing Everest because a rapid ascent would expose us to the risk of accidents. The weather conditions were not promising. We had to wait for the wind to come and blow away the snow as well as waiting until the weather stabilized in order to be able to attack the mountain. This involved waiting for new permits and would increase the effort expended waiting on the mountain.

Still, our permits still had a week to run and we took the opportunity to carry out some activities in the area. On September 11 I went to Chang Tse, at 7519 m, from the camp. On the same day Seb skied on Changzheng. The following day I wanted to climb as high as possible on the normal route towards Everest. There was a lot of snow up to the N collar but progress was fluid. The N ridge was covered in snow and the ice sheets broke three times on the way to the N face. However, they were hard and I made rapid progress and reached 7,950m before midday. It was then that the weather worsened and it began to snow. I descended quickly, following the path of the ascent, and by 3pm was once again in the camp. That’s when we left Everest for another occasion.

The following day, September 13, we went with Vivian and Seb to ski on the mountain in front of our camp, between Changtse and Changzheng, at 6,910m.

Time was running out and conditions on the mountain weren’t changing. The unstable weather continued and there continued to be a high risk of avalanches on the higher reaches. We left the mountain feeling somewhat frustrated. We were well acclimatized and could climb without taking serious risks, but at the same time we were very satisfied with the activities that we had been able to carry out. I’m very happy with what I’ve learned these last few weeks in the Himalayas. We’ve seen what things work and what needs to change. We have learned and personally I have grown as a climber. The expedition has left us feeling very positive in spite of not being able to reach the summit. It’s been a great experience that will be useful when we come back and we’ll try again in the future.

Kilian

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Kilian Jornet postpones his dream of conquering Everest

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Kilian Jornet returns from Everest without having climbed the world’s highest mountain. Bad weather conditions during the final stage of the expedition have forced him to abandon the attempt to climb Everest via the north face.

As Jornet explained: “During the first few weeks we were acclimatising well and the conditions were good. However, when we were getting ready to prepare the attempt the weather began to change. There were some heavy snow storms and a large accumulation of snow. As a result, although we were in good physical shape, there was a high risk of avalanches and in the absence of good safety conditions it was impossible to climb.”  

In spite of not being able to complete the challenge, Jornet was happy with the experience.  “There’s a sense of frustration because we’re well acclimatised and we feel good but it would have exposed us to too much risk. Nevertheless, we’re happy because it’s been a very positive experience in which we’ve learnt a lot. Being alone on Everest is incredible as there was no one else there. Now we’ll go home to recover and plan the future. I think that if we come back there are some things we would change but it’s been a great experience and a good lesson for next time.”

So, having spent three weeks at base camp on the north face of Everest (6,000m) acclimatising and preparing for the challenge of climbing the world’s highest mountain, Jornet and the Summits of My Life team postponed the the Everest challenge until a later date.

With this challenge, Kilian Jornet intended to complete the Summits of My Life project in which since 2012 he has broken records for the ascent and descent of mountains around the world.  

[More details of the expedition will be available shortly]

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