Chronicle of #SoMLEverest by Kilian Jornet

We arrived in Kathmandu on August 7. We had what was effectively a one-way ticket, although the aim was to reach the summit in between four and six weeks. Everything depended on our acclimatisation and the conditions on the mountain, but we felt good. We were excited and keen to begin the challenge. After several weeks of preparation in the high Alps, we flew to Kathmandu. The initial idea was to go directly to Rombuk and the Base Camp, but due to various bureaucratic problems we didn’t arrive in Tibet until August 16.


Before going to Tibet we took advantage of this time and went to Langtang so as not to lose our acclimatisation and to see how the reconstruction work in the valley was progressing after last year’s earthquake.

We climbed the valley from Syabru Besi to Kianjin Gompa. We noticed that the area was coming back to life. The lodges were opening again and the most affected villages, such as Langtang, were beginning to rebuild themselves after the winter and the monsoon, hoping that the tourist industry, still very small in this valley, would resume and get back to the levels before the earthquake. The project that we launched together with the NGO SOS Himalaya has led to some homes being built in Langtang, but there’s still a lot to do. We also took advantage of this week in Langtang to climb to an altitude of 5,500 m.

After a long journey to Tibet, on August 19 we finally arrived at Rombuk, where the road ends, just in front of the north face of Everest. It was a long journey but it was worth the effort: from this side the mountain appears to be a perfect white pyramid crisscrossed with strips of rock.

We spent two days in Rombuk  and climbed some summits up to 6,500m. On the 22nd we climbed up to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) with 12 yaks, Sitaram, the agency’s Nepalese cook, and Namste, the Tibetan kitchen boy. The state of the moraines made it impossible for the yaks to arrive at ABC, known as Zombie Camp, which is at 6,500m. In the end, we left them in the moraine, at around 6,000m and 5km from the ABC, where we put up the tents at what was to be our encampment for the expedition.


The following week it was time to acclimatize at altitude. We felt good and as the weather was sunny and warm and not windy we were able to climb rapidly to 7,200m towards the north pass, towards Rapiu La,, climbing to 7,700m on the north ridge. As we moved alone and each at their own speed, we looked for the safest routes in terms of cracks and seracs. On the 29th I climbed to 7,700m looking for a line on the left of the seracs on the north collar: specifically on the north-northeast face. If the conditions on the north northeast face were perfect, with snow and ice covering the boots, there was clearly a quantity of fresh snow that had fallen on the ridge during the monsoon. That day I got up to 7,700m. It’s an incredible feeling to be alone on such a huge mountain. There was a lot of snow which made it difficult to move forward but, in terms of safety, conditions were good. There was no risk of avalanches and the weather was stable.


Two days later, on August 31, we decided to have one last day of acclimatization, and try to reach 8,000-8,200m. This time we went up with Seb and Jordi at three in the morning following the moraine from our camp and at six in the morning attacked the north-northeast face. We decided to climb by a new route to the right of the face, on the spur of the channel to the right of the Russian path and emerging at 7,900 m to the right of the pinnacles. We made good progress in perfect snow and ice conditions, with an average incline of 55° and some sections on ice. At midday, at 7,600m, the weather changed unexpectedly. There was a heavy snowstorm and with it a high risk of avalanches.

After this attempt, we spent a few days relaxing in Rombuk, waiting for better weather to return. We wanted to get to the summit as everything seemed to be going well.

During those days the monsoon intensified, there was a lot of wind and constant snowfalls. On September 8 it seemed the good weather had arrived and we tried to reach the summit with Jordi and Seb. We knew that the conditions were difficult but we wanted to try it. We left our camp at midnight. At three in the morning we reached the north-northeast wall, quickly passed the rimaya at 7,000m, and we realized that the wind had created large plates and we decided to descend.


We analyzed the situation and it was clear that over the past few days a lot of snow had accumulated on the mountain and the wind had formed large plates, not only on the north-northeast face but also on the ridge. Bearing this in mind, it was clear that things had to change radically if we were to attack the summit in safety. We had to postpone the challenge of climbing Everest because a rapid ascent would expose us to the risk of accidents. The weather conditions were not promising. We had to wait for the wind to come and blow away the snow as well as waiting until the weather stabilized in order to be able to attack the mountain. This involved waiting for new permits and would increase the effort expended waiting on the mountain.

Still, our permits still had a week to run and we took the opportunity to carry out some activities in the area. On September 11 I went to Chang Tse, at 7519 m, from the camp. On the same day Seb skied on Changzheng. The following day I wanted to climb as high as possible on the normal route towards Everest. There was a lot of snow up to the N collar but progress was fluid. The N ridge was covered in snow and the ice sheets broke three times on the way to the N face. However, they were hard and I made rapid progress and reached 7,950m before midday. It was then that the weather worsened and it began to snow. I descended quickly, following the path of the ascent, and by 3pm was once again in the camp. That’s when we left Everest for another occasion.

The following day, September 13, we went with Vivian and Seb to ski on the mountain in front of our camp, between Changtse and Changzheng, at 6,910m.

Time was running out and conditions on the mountain weren’t changing. The unstable weather continued and there continued to be a high risk of avalanches on the higher reaches. We left the mountain feeling somewhat frustrated. We were well acclimatized and could climb without taking serious risks, but at the same time we were very satisfied with the activities that we had been able to carry out. I’m very happy with what I’ve learned these last few weeks in the Himalayas. We’ve seen what things work and what needs to change. We have learned and personally I have grown as a climber. The expedition has left us feeling very positive in spite of not being able to reach the summit. It’s been a great experience that will be useful when we come back and we’ll try again in the future.



Kilian Jornet postpones his dream of conquering Everest


Kilian Jornet returns from Everest without having climbed the world’s highest mountain. Bad weather conditions during the final stage of the expedition have forced him to abandon the attempt to climb Everest via the north face.

As Jornet explained: “During the first few weeks we were acclimatising well and the conditions were good. However, when we were getting ready to prepare the attempt the weather began to change. There were some heavy snow storms and a large accumulation of snow. As a result, although we were in good physical shape, there was a high risk of avalanches and in the absence of good safety conditions it was impossible to climb.”  

In spite of not being able to complete the challenge, Jornet was happy with the experience.  “There’s a sense of frustration because we’re well acclimatised and we feel good but it would have exposed us to too much risk. Nevertheless, we’re happy because it’s been a very positive experience in which we’ve learnt a lot. Being alone on Everest is incredible as there was no one else there. Now we’ll go home to recover and plan the future. I think that if we come back there are some things we would change but it’s been a great experience and a good lesson for next time.”

So, having spent three weeks at base camp on the north face of Everest (6,000m) acclimatising and preparing for the challenge of climbing the world’s highest mountain, Jornet and the Summits of My Life team postponed the the Everest challenge until a later date.

With this challenge, Kilian Jornet intended to complete the Summits of My Life project in which since 2012 he has broken records for the ascent and descent of mountains around the world.  

[More details of the expedition will be available shortly]


This year Kilian Jornet will attempt what will probably be the most demanding challenges of the Summits of My Life project and, indeed, of his life. After breaking records on mountains around the world, the final part of his personal project will be an attempt to establish the record for ascending Everest, the world’s highest mountain (8,848m). The ascent of the giant Himalayan peak will take place in August and September. Once again, Kilian Jornet is taking on this challenge his own way, in the most pure and minimalist manner possible.

“Everest will probably be one of the most demanding climbs I’ve ever faced. It will be a great learning experience, from how my body reacts to the high altitude to how to apply the Alpine approach to the mountain. I’ve been preparing for this challenge for months and I’m keen to get started. The Summits of My Life project has always taken me to my limits and this time it won’t be any different,” Kilian Jornet says.

Kilian Jornet is taking on Everest with the purist and minimalist philosophy that is the trademark of the Alpine style. This means that, as with other challenges in the Summits of My Life project, he intends to complete the ascent in one go, without stopping at high-altitude camps. This is different from the classical Alpine approach but he has also acclimatising himself in a different way. Killian Jornet and his team intend to spend the last few weeks before they go to the Himalayas at a high altitude in the Alps. As Jordi Tosas explains: “It’s a new approach to acclimatisation. Before we set off for the Himalayas we will have partly acclimatised having spent some days at altitude. This means we won’t have to wait so long to start when we arrive at the Everest base camp.” Kilian Jornet adds: “This means we’ll be stronger when we begin the ascent. It can make you weaker if you spend several days acclimatising yourself on the mountain. With this type of acclimatisation we can begin the challenge with more energy and a better chance of success.”  

grafisme everest_ok

Jornet has chosen a little-used route on the north face. As in previous Summits of My Life challenges, he will set off from the last inhabited place and from there aim to reach the summit and return to the point of departure. He will set off from the Rongbuk monastery in Tibet. Kilian Jornet will then have to cover some 30km before arriving at the advanced north face base camp – Zombie Camp (6,500m) and from there ascend to the 8,848m summit. Depending conditions, the team will decide the ascend route which Norton or Horbein are two of the possible options. It will be the first time that Kilian Jornet has climbed above 8,000m, which is why he said: “We’ll have to see how our body reacts at altitude. This expedition will be, above all, a learning exercise because we know there’s a long road ahead. Preparation is key, but we will also need to be patient to learn about these great mountains.”

Kilian Jornet is taking on the challenge without oxygen or fixed ropes and carrying the lightest equipment possible. As he explains:  “This is so I can move more quickly. With light equipment we can advance quicker, although we know this increases the risk. We’re aware of this risk and we’re taking it because ultimately this is the way we like to approach the mountain.” The team doesn’t wish to predict how long the ascent of Everest will take as they are aware that there’s no evidence that any expedition has attempted this challenge in this way.

The Everest expedition is made up of Jordi Tosas, an Alpine climber who knows the area well, as well as the cameramen and guides Sébastien Montaz-Rosset and Vivian Bruchez.

Once again, the way in which Kilian experiences the mountain will be a key factor, as it’s a small team and a huge challenge, all under the umbrella and based on the values of  Summits of My Life: minimalism, friendship and learning. The expedition will leave Europe on August 7 and will be in the area for around eight weeks, waiting for the best moment to begin the ascent.

“The day when we attack the summit we think there won’t be anyone else on Everest. It’s a period when there’s no one there. Thanks to the monsoon the fixed ropes will be covered with snow and Everest will only allow you one chance,” said Tosas.


However, Kilian Jornet is aware that he may not be able to complete the challenge, and commented: “Reaching the summit depends on a lot of factors. There are external factors, such as the weather and the conditions on the mountain, but it also depends on us, if we are sufficiently prepared. Whatever happens, if we don’t make it, for me it’s not a failure. On the contrary, it’s a lesson. I know that whatever happens we’ll return from Everest having learnt something. In the end, it’s the mountain that’s in charge and we have to be humble. It will always be there, waiting for us, for another chance.”  

If he reaches the summit of Everest, it would mark the completion of Summits of My Life, in which Jornet has set record times on Mont Blanc, Cervino, Denali and the Aconcagua.

All the details of this adventure can be followed through Social Media channels Summits of My Life.


Twitter: @summitsofmlylife

Summits of My Life achieves the peak of solidarity to help Nepal

Summits of My Life has achieved the fundraising challenge it set out last December when, to coincide with the premiere of the film Langtang, Kilian Jornet and the NGO SOS Himalaya-Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, launched the project to raise €58,080 towards rebuilding 116 houses in Langtang, one of the areas worst hit by the earthquake that struck Nepal in 2015.

Seven months later, Summits of My Life has not only reached its target but exceeded it. In total, thanks to the donations made via the platform Mi Grano de Arena (Doing My Bit), in addition to other fundraising activities, €58,958,03 has been raised. These funds have been managed by SOS Himalaya-Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, which has gone to the area to coordinate the rebuilding work.

This has served as a contribution to help Nepal after the earthquake that struck on April 25, 2015, which had terrible consequences. According to official figures, the natural disaster left 9,000 dead and a very large number of people homeless. One of the worst affected areas was the Langtang valley where the Summits of My Life team witnessed the effects of the earthquake at first hand.

The village of Langtang was completely buried under an avalanche of snow, ice and rock as a result of the large amount of snow that had accumulated over an especially hard winter. Furthermore, the aftershocks seriously damaged nearby villages. The few survivors were evacuated to refugee camps in Kathmandu. The earthquake left most of them homeless and they are now living in temporary shelters.

To help them, Summits of My Life and the NGO SOS Himalaya-Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza began a campaign to raise funds to help in the reconstruction of Langtang. This coincided with the premiere of Langtang, the third film in the Summits of My Life project, the story of what Kilian Jornet and his team experienced after the earthquake.

The inhabitants of Langtang set up a committee to coordinate international donations and to invest them in rebuilding the valley.

As part of this project, Summits of My Life organised various activities, as well as seeking donations via the platform Mi Grano de Arena (Doing My Bit). The raffle of Kilian Jornet’s Suunto Ambit 3 Peak watch raised €7,884. A further €11,916 was raised at the screenings of the film in Barcelona and Stuttgart, where last March the Langtang project coincided with the O.U.T. Salomon Festival. Furthermore, on April 25, 38 screenings were held around the world to commemorate the first anniversary of the Nepal earthquake. These raised  €17,082 and €22,076.03 joined the anonymous donations made through Mi Grano de Arena.

SOS Himalaya-Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza has earmarked a total of € 58,958,03 to spend on the following material to rebuild houses in Langtang: sheeting for roofs, plywood for roofs and walls, helicopter transport and labour.

Members of the NGO have gone to the site to coordinate the rebuilding work. The first phase involved the major task of digging out the village buried under the avalanche. With that completed, the process of rebuilding the houses has begun and will be carried out over the next few months.

This is a small contribution and Langtang continues to need help to return to normality. Anyone who wishes to may continue working towards the rebuilding of Langtang by making donations to S0S Himalaya-Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza.

We’re counting on you to help Nepal


April 25 marks the first anniversary and Summits of My Life has set up a very special activity to pay homage to the people of Nepal on social network. The aim is to remind everyone that Nepal still needs our help to rebuild itself.

We want you to become the voice of our project!

If you don’t have a T-shirt, you can share this image on your social networks!


Will you help? Share the project on your social networks. If we all take part we can reach many people.  

Summits of My Life Commemorates the first anniversary of the Nepal Earthquake


Screening list

Åndalsnes (Norway)

Åre (Sweden)

Baguio (Philippines)

  • Where: Canto Restaurant
  • Time: 19:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue
  • Organizer: The Cordillera Conservation Trust


Barcelona (Spain)

  • Where: Filmoteca de Catalunya
  • Time: 20:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue (19.00 h)
  • Organizer: Summits of My Life

Brussels (Belgium)

Calella, Maresme (Spain)

  • Where: Sala Mozart 
  • Time: 21:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue
  • Organizer: Ajuntament de Calella

Doha (Qatar)

Hong Kong

  • Where: Hebe Haven Yacht Club
  • Time: 18.15 h
  • Tickets: At the venue or via email at
  • Organizer: Race Base Asia

Hong Kong

Hong Kong

  • Where: Taikoo Place
  • Time: 19:30 h
  • Tickets: At the venue or via email at
  • Organizer: Race Base Asia

Jakarta (Indonesia)

  • Where: Pavilum 28
  • Time: 19:00 h
  • Tickets: At venue
  • Organizer: Race Base Asia

Putrajaya (Malasia)

Ordino (Andorra)

  • Where: Auditori Nacional d’Andorra
  • Time: 21:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue and Oficines de Turisme d’Ordino i Andorra la Vella
  • Organizer: Cims Màgics, Comú d’Ordino, Govern d’Andorra and Radio i Televisió d’Andorra
London (UK)

Manila (Philippines)

  • Where: Conrad’s Cafe
  • Time: 19:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue
  • Organizer: Race Base Asia

Mallorca (Spain)

  • Where: Evasion Running Mallorca
  • Time: 21:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue and On-line
  • Organizer: Evasion Running Mallorca

Mojstrana (Slovenia)

Réunion Island (France)

Rotorua (New Zealand)

  • Where: G Block Lecture Theatre
  • Time: 19:00 h
  • Tickets: At the venue
  • Organizer: Rotorua Running Club

Salvan (Switzerland)

  • Where: Salle Polyvalente Salvan
  • Time: 20:00 h
  • Tickets: Maison du Tourisme de Salvan / Les Marécottes and at the venue
  • Organizer: Commune Salvan

San Francisco (USA)

San Sebastián (Spain)

  • Where: Aquarium
  • Time: 19:00 h
  • Tickets: On-line
  • Organizer: El Diario Vasco


Sofia (Bulgaria)

  • Where: National Palace of Cultura, Sala Lumiere Cinema
  • Time: 19:00 h
  • Tickets: On-line
  • Organizer: Travellers Club Bulgaria

Tokio (Japan)

Tenerife (Spain)

Zaragoza (Spain)

Kilian Jornet and the Summits of My Life team in Germany


Stuttgart, in south-west Germany, last night hosted the German premiere of “Langtang”. Kilian Jornet and the Summits of My Life team were present at the screening that was attended by 450 people in the Wagenhallen hall.

Kilian Jornet, accompanied by the film’s director Seb Montaz and the mountaineer Jordi Tosas, gave a talk about Nepal and why they travelled to the Langtang valley almost a year ago.

“We are happy to be here, it’s the first time that we present a Summits of My Life film in Germany. It’s always nice to have a screening to have time to share it with the audience and have their feedback, as well as share backstage moments of the films”, Kilian said.

The event was  part of the Salomon O.U.T. festival which also screened other films of athletes from around the world trail running.

As well as documenting the journey, the film is also a homage to the Nepalese people and their generosity. As with the film’s earlier showing in Barcelona, all of the proceeds from the Stuttgart screening will go towards the charitable project established by Summits of My Life and the NGO SOS Himalaya aimed at rebuilding 116 houses in the Langtang valley in Nepal.

German première of “Langtang”



Langtang”, the third film in the Kilian Jornet’s Summits of My Life project begins a round of screenings around the world. People in various countries will have the opportunity to enjoy the film and also to contribute to the charitable project in Nepal.

Following the official presentation in Barcelona last December, Stuttgart will be the next stop when “Langtang” will get its German première on March 30. The film’s three main protagonists Kilian Jornet, Seb Montaz and Jordi Tosas will be there to share with the public their experiences in Nepal while making the film. The event will be presented by Olympic Medalist in Cross Country Skiing Peter Schlickenrieder, now a TV commentator.

The screening starts at 20h30 in the Wagenhallen hall in the capital of Baden-Württemberg, in south-west Germany. The screening is part of the Salomon O.U.T. festival and other films produced by the French company will be shown. Langtang, which tells the story of the team in Nepal in the days following the earthquake that rocked the country, will be the final film in the event.

As well as documenting the journey, the film also pays homage to the generosity of the Nepalese people. As at the presentation in Barcelona, all proceeds from the event will go towards the charity project launched by Summits of My Life and the NGO SOS Himalaya which aims to rebuild  116 houses in the Langtang valley in Nepal.

Around 450 spectators are expected. Tickets are available online for €8 at

[Watch the film]

7.884 thanks!

A few days ago we asked you to scale another “summit” by participating at Suunto Ambit 3 Pek Charity Draw. You’ve done it and all thanks to your unconditional support. You have raised 7.884 euros, all of which will go towards the rebuilding of 116 houses in the Langtang valley.

A huge thank you to everyone for your support. Thanks to you, 116 families will soon be able to go back to their homes.

We have reached another stage but we aren’t stopping there. The challenge of helping Langtang continues!

Help us build this dream!

Help Summits of My Life and SOS Himalaya to collect funds in order to rebuild 116 houses in Langtang Valley. We want to provide homes for the families left homeless by the earthquake of Nepal!

Donations can be made through the project website:

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